This article gives an overview of Scarborough’s fascinating maritime history dating back as far as the Romans and Vikings. The story is so rich that several volumes would be needed to cover it in any detail so this is a beginner’s guide. We hope that it will inspire you, the reader, to find out more. The book is dedicated to Lindy Rowley MBE and John Rushton MBE without whom there would be no book and no Scarborough Maritime Heritage Centre.
Index
Chapter 1: A Natural Harbour
Chapter 2: The Fish Trade
Chapter 3: Ship & Boatbuilding
Chapter 4: Storms & Rescue
Chapter 5: Superstitions & Folklore
Chapter 6: Famous Families (TBA)
Chapter 7: Pirates & Smugglers
Chapter 8: Scarborough At War (TBA)
Chapter 9: The Present & Future (TBA)
Chapter 1: A Natural Harbour
15,000 years ago Scarborough stood under an ice sheet a mile thick. When the ice age retreated the lowland between here and Europe became a marshy plain now known as Doggerland. Three great rivers fed into this gap, the Rhine, the Seine and the Thames. As the ice melted and sea levels rose the higher ground of the East Coast of England began to stand out. The earliest signs of habitation in the area come from Starr Carr beside what was once lake Flixton. Here, 11,000-year-old horse hoof prints have been found in the mud along with worked deer antlers and postholes indicating human settlement.
Scarborough Castle sits atop a rocky headland that forms a protective wall against the North Easterly winds and storms whipping across the North Sea, once known as the German Ocean. The earliest sign of habitation here is the remains of a Roman lookout and signal tower used to watch out for invaders.
Scarborough’s name derives from the Norse language of the Vikings. It used to be thought that a Viking called Thorgil and nicknamed Skarthi, because of his ‘scarred face’, (a cleft palate or hare-lip) laid claim to the bay. More recent thinking shows that Vikings often named places after their natural features and the Norse word ‘scar’ refers to a rocky outcrop i.e. what we know now as the castle headland. What we do know is that an earth and timber, motte and bailey castle was started in the 1130s. During the reign of King Henry II the castle was rebuilt in stone.
Scarboroughs Old Town and its connection to the sea
Scarboroughs rich maritime heritage revolves around the Old Town. This comprises the area around the harbour and on the castle hill. The Old Town extends as far as Friargate and Scarboroughs Market Hall. It traditionally ends at the top of the hill at St Marys church. This small area is where the fishermens cottages, quay side and ship yards were all situated. Any historical references to the fishing and seafaring community will feature the Old Town - they all lived in streets such as Longwestgate, Princess Street, and down Sandgate. In the ancient past this was Scarborough. So any seamen naturally lived here. The town has expanded northwards towards Peasholm and southwards towards the Esplanade. Scarboroughs Old Town is still seen as a geographical entity especially by the people who live there. Its known as the Bottom End and the people who live there are known as Bottomenders. There is so much maritime heritage within the Old Town. The Graham Sea training school which is now a house (Paradise House) yet in former times was a training ground for young seamen. The Public Houses often reveal a link to former times such as the Newcastle Packet which was built in the era of the colliers taking coals from Newcastle. Cielos on Sandside was the former Bethel Mission where the highly religious wesleyian seafaring community met together. Many of the houses themselves feature tunnels and cupboards which date back to the golden era of smuggling - the classic smugglers hideout being the Three Mariners Inn. Even St Marys church yard which features so many ancient mariners graves. Like many of the harbours and havens on the North East coast, Scarborough is built on a steep hill. Many of the streets are built on top of each other. The beauty of places such as Scarboroughs castle hill, Robin Hoods Bay or Runswick Bay is in the anarchic and random way in which the houses are built. There are streets with just a few houses in. There are impossibly narrow alley ways. There are cobble stones and small streets which lead nowhere. Robin Hood's Bay has continued on unchanged yet in Scarborough's Old Town some of the best features have been lost due to the council who demolished streets in the 1920's and later again in the 1960's. New streets have been built such as Springfield or Tollergate. New council flats maybe functional yet they do not have the character of the old fishermens cottages. Many of those old fishermens cottages knocked down on Dumple Street would have been highly sort after real estate nowadays. They had character and beauty. Many old fishermens cottages have since been transformed by prosperous newcomers. They feature spiral staircases and immaculate furnishings. They are more like palaces nowadays. Streets such as Custom House Steps and Tuthill maybe give town planners a serious headache yet they are highly sought after. Even the street names were quite evocative and unusual. They represent the connection with the past and the fishing heritage. Names such as Quay Street, Custom House Steps, Dog and Duck Lane, Tuthill, Salmon Steps, Castlegate, Long Greece Steps, Paradise, Church Lane Steps, St Sepulchre Street and Longwestgate. The new streets seem rather sterile in their naming such as Grahams Close(cul-de-sac). The houses too contain clear links to the past. Cottages named after fishermen such as Ruffans cottage - the dwelling of fisherman James 'Ruffen' Bayes on Princess Street. Other house names such as Neptune House and Butter Cross Cottage reveal links to the past. Modern houses try to fit in with the character of the Old Town. Modern house names such as Clifholme reveal an overwhelming sense of connection to the Old Towns maritime heritage. Fishing cottages may be owned now by the most unlikely people - professionals, artists and writers,prosperous tradesmen, gay couples or whatever. These people value the sense of community which exists in the Old Town. It is some of the less obvious names which probably have a deeper connection to the past. Harwood House, for instance,on Tuthill, is a link to the fishing family which lived in the Old Town. The Harwood's go back many centuries. They are not a vastly important fishing family nowadays though. Yet two Harwoods were crew members on the first Scarborough Lifeboat. Wesleys House also reveals links to the genuine past. John Wesley himself visited the town. There was a drifter 'John Wesley' which sank in the 1800's skippered by John Harwood. Many of the fishermen were keen followers of this denomination. There was also a yawl called the 'Temperance Pledge'. Parts of the Old Town community were very religious. A belief in God and honest clean living and hard work. They were strict Wesleylians. Many of the old fishing families now have no real connection with the sea. The fishing quotas have destroyed the local industry. Now a single huge trawler can catch as many fish as the herring fleets of days gone by. Yet many of the old familiar names remain in the streets of the old town. The Normandales, the Rowleys, the Bayes, the Jenkinsons and the Sheaders, the Crawfords, the Eves, the Cammishes,the Pashbys, the Luntleys to name but a few. Much of the old fishing community is dying out. So many seafarers are now retired. Even the Fishermens Wives charity has now closed down. This was a charity which raised thousands for the local Scarborough hospital. Run by Maggie mainprize MBE the local charity shop raised thousands. That has now closed. So many of the old fishing community are now pensioners. Those who have moved on still value the fishing heritage. This website has had emails from Australia and Texas. They still hold onto old photos of the families. They proudly pass on a painting of Granddads trawler. People talk proudly of their ancestors who were fishermen. Thats unlike any other job perhaps with the exception of miners. The Fishermens and Firemans football match still takes place. It has been played for over a hundred years. It was a charity football match which took place between the fishermen and firemen(stokers of the steam trawlers). Today many of the players are not fishermen. But that sense of community has been passed down. This contrasts with other areas in Scarborough which are devoid of any sense of community with transient often very poor populations . The Old Town however still retains a real sense of community spirit. It retains the look and feel of a village yet is deep in the heart of a modern town. Inside the Old Town people still know their neighbours. That is so very unusal or any town. The Old Town of Scarborough is not a vast place - it takes five minutes to walk from one side to the other. Yet the people who lived there rarely met anyone from outside. The fishermen looked out to sea whilst the farmers nearby looked inwards towards the land. The fishing families were all inter related - some would say in bred. There were communities inside the communities - there were the hard drinkers and the 'Temperance Pledge' groups - they kept themselves to themselves. Some of the women never left the Old Town or never travelled by train. Yet seafarers travelled far and wide. They saw the world when others around them never travelled. Some of the most insular fishing communities were Staithes and Whitby - yet Captain Cook sailed from here and saw more of the world than anyone. They visited Tahiti and the Pacific which at that time may have well have been on the moon or the planet Venus. They were the explorers yet wherever they visited always had a coastline.
When the Colliers came to Scarborough
The greatest stimulus to the north east Yorkshire ports over several centuries was the expansion in the despatch of coal from the Northumberland and Durham coal fields . The port of Sunderland was improved and by 1710 its overseas shipments were nearly equal to those of Newcastle. The north eastern coal trade increased from 400.000 London chaldrons in 1701, to 2 million tons in 1801 ,of which three quarters went to London. The vessels called collier brigs were built to carry a maximum load of coal with a minimum draught. Many were almost flat bottomed to allow the unloading of coal on east coast and European beaches. The average capacity of colliers rose from 140 tons in 1702 to 580 tons in 1840. Collier ownership was heavily concentrated at Whitby and Scarborough, where many of the vessels were built and manned ,rather than at Newcastle and Sunderland. Scarborough, with 54 ships calling at Newcastle, early in the century, was already important in the trade, although not as heavily involved as Whitby with 98 vessels. Other east coast ports had significant fleets by 1704. Their order of significance in the number of chaldrons moved was Yarmouth with 211 vessels, London, Whitby, Newcastle, Brighton, Scarborough, Bridlington, Ramsgate, Hull and Margate,the last sending 24 ships. Whitby ,Scarborough and Bridlington were all increasingly involved in the trade. Samuel Bell, Nicholas Saunders, Robert Steile, Edward Catlin and Thomas F. T. Foster were appointed to take office as local "coal meters" for the port of Scarborough in 1715. Owners and masters from Scarborough and Whitby were combining to protect their interests by 1717 and local committees existed two years later . The Whitby ship owners suggested articles of agreement, "after inconveniences" in 1717. They proposed that no-one should load coal before March 10th at Newcastle, but that those laid up elsewhere than Tynemouth and other loading ports could sail on March 1st. No-one was to begin a voyage after Sept 29th. Other suggestions covered coal prices at London and Holland , delivery by ships in turn, and monthly payment of wages. A conference of the Whitby men together with the coal agents and masters of Scarborough vessels, sought to keep out interlopers, who entered the trade when prices were high and when other trades were depressed. The threat posed by inter -port combinations in 1729 had Whitby and Scarborough forming their own combination and agreeing to send no coal till March 3rd. London blamed the rising price of coal at the capital on these combinations. They said that many of the coal ships had masters "of great passion and little reason" The Earl of Scarborough, a Durham mine owner, in 1727 had an interest in seventeen vessels trading from Scarborough, fourteen from Whitby and two Filey ships. The Scarborough masters were William Barker (Three Brothers), Richard Bell (Concord), Stephen Bilbrough (William and Ann), John Braithwaite (Friendship), William Cappelby (George), Thomas Fletcher (The Hopewell), William Fowler (Eagle), John Harrison (Loving Hart), John Huntriss (John), John Lawson (Endeavour), George Mainprize (Hopewell), William Matthews (Jane), John Nessfield (Francis), Robert Stephenson (Patience), William Wade(Unity), William Wilson (Happy Return) and Thomas Anon (Happy Return). A typical voyage by a Scarborough owned collier saw Captain Allatson Bell leave Newcastle on August 5th.1718 for his sixth voyage . He had property in East Sandgate and his family became rich in Scarborough's maritime trade. The profit of this voyage however, was distributed to Thomas Goland, George Hugill, William Fowler and other shareholders. More voyages later that year were very similar in their pattern of cost, income and profit but included purchases of peas, swine grease, cheese, hard and soft bread, vinegar, a pair of oars for four shillings, a stone of oakum at one shilling and four pence, a brass gauging compass for nine shillings and mending maintop sails for eight shillings and ninepence. Seven men were paid wages. One man had £1 for "looking after our ship in Winter". The voyage accounts can be summarised :- 132 chalder of coals cost £71.4.0 keel dues £10.18.0 heaving ballast £1 trimming coal 16s portage £3..16.0 a stone of pitch 2s4d horse hire 2s shipping money 4s laying second hand rope 4s6d seven yards of old canvas 2s4d anon 15s 26 stone 15 lbs beef £1.13.3 axe, nails, bread etc 9s custom house charges £13.17.6. cobble hire at Scarborough 3s Newcastle £112.3.9 London crimps bill £13.5.3.9. wages £25.12.6. profit £17.9.1. When Robert T. Gaskin prepared his vaulable book "The Old Seaport of Whitby" in 1909 he was able to examine several voyage account books . He told of the "Havanna" of Whitby, built in 1715, at a cost of £1678. The bill included the hull £650, sails £115, and smith's work £120. The ship would carry 220 tons of coal. The Havanna showed good profits in seven voyages to London and Norway. Gaskin also noted records of the Whitby coal vessel "William and Jane" between 1718 and 1729. Similar records are very scarce for Scarborough and the Maritime Heritage Centre would dearly like to hear of any still existing, where-ever they are.. Larger coal ships and increased traffic offshore called for bigger harbours , especially for the collier fleets to take refuge in bad weather. When Filey proposed a new harbour, Scarborough , with a keen sense of self interest, argued that it would be cheaper to enlarge the harbour at Scarborough. And yet this harbour had persistent problems. When great storms breached the great pier in July 1710, near the battery ,two of the pier guns were washed into the harbour. The Corporation mortgaged Wheatcroft farm to raise monies for repairs. Silting up was continuous .It was necessary to open the outgate hole in the great pier to wash it out, and close it again before Michaelmas1723. A Committee to draft a Parliamentary bill for harbour improvement met in 1730, including Thomas Cockerill, Culmer Cockerill, Henry Cottrell, Thomas Coulson, Benjamin Fowler, John Harrison, John Hebden, William Maling, Timothy Otbie, and James Tindall. The Bailiffs of Scarborough in a letter of ,1731 said that they had "approved Mr. Lelam for an engineer".He had supervised the north pier extension at Bridlington and rebuilt their south pier in 1717. He was the Sunderland harbour engineer 1722-1731. Early in 1732, he was told to survey the shore near the great Scarborough pier and examine how it might be convenient to alter the pier for enlarging the harbour.The survey was approved and Lelam attended Parliament to give evidence. The Scarborough Harbour Act. of 1731 stated that "Whereas the harbour of this ancient town corporate of Scarborough" is "the only place between the port of Newcastle and the River Humber capable of receiving in distress of weather, ships navigating to and along the northern coasts " and "to and from the eastern seas and other places " without great difficulty, the enlarging and extending of the piers would render it more commodious for receiving large vessels, particularly those using the coal trade, in tempest and other times of danger. The estimated expense of £12.000 was to enlarge the pier in order to gain at least six foot of water, Scarborough was unable to raise the money it self. The burgesses proposed that there should be a levy of a half penny, for "every chalder of coals laden on board any ship , hoy, bark or other vessel at the port of Newcastle on Tyne, or at Sunderland, Blyth, Seaton sluice, Cullercoates and other members of that port.", from 24.6.1732 till 24.6. 1763 , payable to the Scarborough bailiffs and burgesses. The duties were to be collected at the Custom Houses of Newcastle and Sunderland and sent en bloc, less a collector's charge. Ship masters were to pay at lading, before being allowed to proceed and would be given receipts. Local duties were also authorised until 24.6.1783. There would be an import duty on goods landed at Scarborough (with the exception of those brought in ships of Great Yarmouth) and a double duty for those imported in foreign bottoms. There was also an export duty on goods shipped from Scarborough. These things came to pass. The bailiffs and burgesses were made responsible for pier maintenance and were to appoint an officer to direct moorings. Fifteen commissioners were appointed as watchdogs to audit the accounts. A new day had dawned for Scarborough harbour.
Scarborough ships in the Baltic
Yorkshire was hungry for Baltic goods in the 18th century. Scarborough captains came to know the Baltic well. Flax was imported for the linen industry, that extended from Pickering Vale to Cleveland and for the sailcloth manufactories of Scarborough and Whitby. There was tar, rope, dyes and rye. Baltic timbers came in quantity for ship and house-building as the country’s forests dwindled. Several prominent Scarborough men entered the East-land trade in the sixties. Twenty years later, this had become a major branch of the east coast trade. S K Jones has listed Baltic shipping through the Sound in 1784 as Hull 358, London 342, Whitby, 311, Newcastle 280, Lynn, 116, Scarborough 103 and Liverpool 102 ships. John Tindall’s Free Briton sailed for Russia in 1762-63 calling at St Peterburg. The mates were paid two to three shillings a day and the deck hands a shilling. Thomas Kendall, master of the Content called there in 1766. Captain Enoch Harrison took the Commerce into the Baltic in 1764. Robert Duesbery became a Russia merchant in partnership with Hugh Atkins of London and Jacob Regail of St Petersburg. He borrowed £4000 from his father, but was able to repay it by 1769. Robert Burn in the Exchange and George Hopper in the Ada were Baltic traders in 1770. Master Thomas Davison took the Holmpson to Riga in 1779 and James Tindall was with the Fortitude in the Baltic in 1783. Yorkshire was hungry for Baltic goods in the 18th century. Flax was imported for the linen industry, that extended from Pickering Vale to Cleveland and for the sailcloth manufactories of Scarborough and Whitby. There was tar, rope, dyes and rye. Baltic timbers came in quantity for ship and housebuilding as the county's forests dwindled. Several prominent Scarborough men entered the Eastland trade in the sixties. Twenty years later, this had become a major branch of east coast trade. S. K. Jones has listed Baltic shipping through the Sound in 1784 as Hull 358, London 342, Whitby 311,Newcastle 280,Lynn.116,Scarborough 103.and Liverpool 102 ships. Scarborough captains came to know the Baltic well. John Tindall' s "Free Briton" sailed for Russia in 1762-63 calling at St Petersburg .The mates were paid two to three shillings a day and the deck hands a shilling. Thomas Kendall master of the "Content" called there in 1766 . Captain Enoch Harrison took the "Commerce" into the Baltic in 1764. Robert Duesbery became a "Russia merchant", in partnership with Hugh Atkins of London and Jacob Regail of St Petersburg .He borrowed £4000 from his father but was able to repay it by 1769. Robert Burn in the "Exchange" and George Hopper in the "Ada" were Baltic traders in 1770. Master Thomas Davison took the "Holmpson" to Riga in 1779 and James Tindall was with the "Fortitude" in the Baltic in 1783.
In 2009 floating pontoons were added to the inner harbour for use by small pleasure craft. The pontoons have been named after Albert Strange (1855-1917) a local artist, sailor, writer and designer of small cruising yachts. His craft are acknowledged to be of classic quality and his designs and writing on the subject has contributed significantly to the evolution of the seaworthy cruising yacht.
Chapter 2: The Fish Trade
The song ‘Scarborough Fair’, made famous by the singers ‘Simon and Garfunkel’ in the 1960s, is based on a traditional Yorkshire ballad about the medieval 45 day herring fair held in Scarborough.
Are you going to Scarborough Fair?
Parsley, sage, rosemary, and thyme;
Remember me to one who lives there,
She was once a true love of mine.
Tell her to make me a cambric shirt,
Parsley, sage, rosemary, and thyme;
Without a seam or needlework,
She will be a true love of mine.
Tell her to wash it in yonder dry well,
Parsley, sage, rosemary, and thyme;
Where never spring water or rain ever fell,
She will be a true love of mine.
Tell her to dry it on yonder grey thorn,
Parsley, sage, rosemary, and thyme;
Which never bore blossom since Adam was born,
She will be a true love of mine.
Now he has asked me questions three,
Parsley, sage, rosemary, and thyme;
I hope he'll answer as many for me
Before he shall be a true love of mine.
Tell him to buy me an acre of land,
Parsley, sage, rosemary, and thyme;
Betwixt the salt water and the sea sand,
Then he shall be a true love of mine.
Tell him to plough it with a ram's horn,
Parsley, sage, rosemary, and thyme;
And sow it all over with one pepper corn,
And he shall be a true love of mine.
Tell him to shear it with a sickle of leather,
Parsley, sage, rosemary, and thyme;
And bind it up with a peacock feather.
And he shall be a true love of mine.
Tell him to thrash it on yonder wall,
Parsley, sage, rosemary, and thyme,
And never let one corn of it fall,
Then he shall be a true love of mine.
When he has done and finished his work.
Parsley, sage, rosemary, and thyme:
Oh, tell him to come and he'll have his shirt,
And he shall be a true love of mine.
Thomas Hinderwell - history of Scarboroughs fisheries
This article is taken word for word from Thomas Hinderwells History of Scarborough printed 200 years ago. FISHERIES The Fisheries would "be a profitable branch of trade at Scarborough, if they were under judicious management, and properly extended. There is an abundant variety of excellent fish upon the coast, but not sufficient industry and enterprise in the fishermen to avail themselves of such an advantage. Some efforts were made, a few years ago, to increase the Five-Men Boat[note 1] fishery. Several gentlemen of the town ventured shares in the boats; but the want of unanimity and perseverance in the fishermen defeated the attempt. It is a general complaint with our fishermen, that the Five-Men Boat-fishery is not productive; yet those of Filey and Robin Hood's Bay persevere, and are successful. There was an instance, in the year 1796, of two boats belonging to the latter place, producing to each man nearly fifty pounds, in the space of five months between April and September. One of the Filey-boats was still more successful, as the share of each man amounted to nearly sixty pounds for the summer-fishery, beside the benefit of the Yarmouth-fishery in the autumn. Whatever truth there may be in the popular observation, that the fish are not so plentiful upon the coast as formerly, there is indisputably a sufficient quantity to encourage & more considerable degree of enterprise. The following communication, by the late Mr, John Travis Surgeon to Mr. Pennant in 1769, contains an account of the Fishing-ground, and a summary of the present mode of fishing: " Scarborough is situated at the bottom of a bay, formed by Whitby rock on the north, and Flamborough-Head on the South. The town is seated directly opposite to the centre of the west end of the Dogger-Bank, which end according to Hammond's Chart of the North Sea) lies South by west and North by east; but by a line drawn from Tynemouth-castle, would lead about North-west and South-east. Though the Dogger-Bank be therefore but twelve leagues from Flamborough-Head, yet it is sixteen and a half from Scarborough, twenty-three from Whitby, and thirty-six from Tynemouth-castle. The north side of the bank stretches East-north-east between thirty and forty leagues, until it nearly join the Long-Bank and Jutt's- Riff. "It is to be remarked, that the fishermen seldom find any cod, ling, or other mud-fish upon the Dogger-Bank itself, but on the sloping edges and hollows contiguous to it, the top of the bank being covered with a barren shifting- sand, which affords them no subsistence; and the water on it, from it's shallowness, being continually so agitated and broken, as to allow them no time to rest. The flat fish do not suffer the same inconvenience there; for when disturbed by the motion of the sea, they shelter themselves in the sand, and find variety of suitable food. It is true, the Dutch fish upon the Dogger-Bank; but it is also true they take little, except soles, skates, thornbacks, plaise, &c. It is in the hollows between the Dogger and Well-Bank, that the cod is taken which supplies the London market. "The shore (except at the entrance of Scarborough-Pier, and some few other places) is composed of covered rocks, which abound with lobsters and crabs, and many other kinds of shell-fish [note 2]: Beyond these rocks, there is a space covered with clean sand, extending in different places from one to three or four miles. The bottom from hence all the way to the edge of the Dogger-Bank is a scarr[note 3], in some places very rugged and cavernous; in others smooth, and overgrown with variety of marine plants, corallines; some parts, again, spread with sand and shells; others, for many leagues in length, with soft mud and ooze, furnished by the discharge of the Tees and Humber. "Upon an attentive review of the whole it may be clearly inferred, that the shore along the coast on the one hand, with the edges of the Dogger-Bank on the other,like the sides of a decoy, give a direction toward, our fishing grounds to the mighty shoals of cod and other fish, which are well known to come annually from the Northern ocean into our seas and, secondly, that the great variety of fishing-grounds near Scarborough, extending upward of sixteen leagues from the shore, afford secure retreats and plenty of food for all the various kinds of fish, and also suitable places where each may deposit their spawn. "The fishery at Scarborough only employs 105 men, and produces about 5,250l, per annum[note 4], a trifle to what it would produce, were there a Canal thence to Leeds and Manchester; as it is probable, it would then amount to ten times that sum, employ some thousands of men, give a comfortable and cheap subsistence to our manufacturers, keep the markets moderately reasonable, enable our merchants to undersell our rivals, and prevent the hands, as is too often the case, raising insurrections, in every year of scarcity, natural or artificial." Mode of Fishing at Scarborough. "When the fishermen go out to fish in the Cobles, each person is provided with three lines. Each man's lines are fairly coiled upon a flat oblong piece of wicker-work, the hooks being baited, and placed very regularly in the centre of the coil. Every line is furnished with 280 hooks, at the distance of six feet two inches from each other. The hooks are fastened to the lines upon sneads of twisted horse hair, 27 inches in length. "When fishing, there are always three men in each coble, and consequently nine of these lines are fastened together and used as one line, extending in length nearly three miles, and furnished with 2,520 hooks. An anchor and a buoy fixed at the first end of the line, and the same at the end of each man's lines; in all, four anchors, which are commonly perforated stones, and four buoys made of leather or cork. The line is always stretched across the current. The tides of flood and ebb continue an equal time upon our coast, and when undisturbed by winds, run each, way about six hours. They are so rapid, that the fishermen can only shoot and haul their lines at the turn of the tide; therefore the lines always remain upon the ground about six hours. As the same rapidity of tide prevents their using hand-lines, two of the people commonly wrap themselves in the sail and sleep, while 'the other keeps a vigilant watch for fear of being run down by ships, and to observe the weather ; for storms often rise so suddenly, that it is with extreme difficulty they escape to the shore, often leaving their nets behind. "The Five-Men Boats take two Cobles on board, and when they come upon the fishing ground, anchor the boat, throw out the cobles, and fish in the above manner, with this difference only, that here each man is provided with the double quantity of lines; thus hauling one set, and shooting another every turn of tide." These boats generally take great quantities of cod and ling, which in the months of July and August are salted for exportation. Many of them are under contract with a merchant in London, who agrees for the whole of their Summer's produce. The other boats, not under contract, sell their cod and ling to the fishmongers here, at the average price of twelve shillings and sixpence per score. The holibuts, turbots, skates, etc. are sold by wholesale to the Fish-women, who retail them to the inhabitants, or to the Fish-carriers to be conveyed into the country. The Five-Men Boats, during the winter, do not go to sea; but, at the beginning of Lent, they fit out for the fishery on the edge of the Dogger. In the month of September they go to Yarmouth, where they are employed, until the latter end of November, in the Herring-Fishery. The Cobles[note 5] do not go so far to sea [note 6] as the large boats, nevertheless they take great quantities of the different kinds of fish; and, between the month of December and the beginning of February, frequently meet with abundance of haddocks [note 7]. On the tenth of December 1766, and about the same time the year following, an immense shoal of haddocks came upon our coast, and continued in roe (that is, in full perfection) until the middle of February. This shoal extended from, the shore about three miles in breadth, and in length from Flamborough-Head, to Tynemouth- Castle, or perhaps much farther northward. The fishermen loaded their cobles with them twice a-day, "within the distance of a mile from the harbour of Scarborough, bringing each time nearly a ton of fish. The number of cobles thus employed brought in such quantities, that the market was quite glutted. The poor people bought the smaller sort at a penny, and sometimes a halfpenny per score, and the quantity was too great to be vended, which obliged the fishermen to lay up their cobles for some time. At the distance of three miles from the shore, they met with nothing but Dog-fish in immense quantities, which had followed the shoal of haddocks. At this period, the distresses of the poor were so great in the internal part of the kingdom, from the scarcity and dearness of provisions, that dangerous insurrections were excited, and many families were perishing for want of food. The Fish-market at Scarborough is upon the sands, near the harbour. In a plentiful season there is a great variety, viz. cod, ling, holibut, turbot, skate, codlings, haddocks, whitings, herrings, dabs, plaise, soles, gurnards, coal-fish, lobsters, and crabs. Beside these, the coast is frequented by the following species:the fishing-frog, the sea-wolf, the two kinds of dragonet, the pollack, the doree, and the wrasse or old wife-fish. Of the last, a variety peculiar to this coast is noticed by Mr. Pennant, in his Zoology, under the name of Ballan. The Opah or King-fish, is very rare. A large and beautiful Opah was found dead upon the sea-shore to the northward of Whitby in the year 1807, and exhibited as a curiosity at Scarborough and in the vicinity. Another was also taken at the entrance of Bridlington-harbour, 5th September 1809. The length three feet two inches, the circumference three feet nine inches, and the weight fifty-six pounds. A Sword-fish was, likewise, caught at Filey in September 1808; the length eleven feet, and the weight upward of twenty-three stone. The fishermen had a strong contest with this fish, and it pierced the bottom of the boat with it's beak, before it was killed. NOTES 1. The Five-Men Boats (the larger kind of fishing-boats) are forty-six feet long, sixteen feet eight inches broad, six feet three inches deep, clincher built, and sharp in the bottom, have one deck with a large hatchway in the middle, measure about fifty-eight-tons, and are swift sailers. 2. There are no cockles or oysters. 3. The scarr or rock, which the fishermen call the Stream, where the fish abundantly resort, is three or four miles from Scarborough, but not above one or two from Robin Hood's Bay and Filey. The rock fish are firmer than those caught upon a sandy bottom. 4. The number of fishermen has so much decreased, as, not to amount at present to sixty, and the product is proportionally diminished. 5. The Coble Is twenty-six feet long and five broad, the floor is wide, and the bottom nearly flat, with a stem remarkably sharp. The burthen is about one ton, and it carries three men, who row with each a pair of short oars: a mast is occasionally 'stepped,' with a lug-sail. 6. In the summer they go to the inner edge of the scarr, to the distance of three or four miles. 7. The migration of haddocks is frequent, and the return at this season of late years not so regular.
Chapter 3: Ship & Boatbuilding
The port of Scarborough in the late 15th Century
An article on the port of Scarborough in the late 15th century by John Rushton Scarborough had been an active borough for about three hundred years. The old borough sited on a bounded plot west of the King's castle had been supplemented by the new borough and an extension founded under the cliff, around a staithe below West Sandgate. Much later, a pier and then a quay had been built to the east, but houses near it were often destroyed by the seas rage, and these structures had been rebuilt more than once. Their maintenance and repair was a heavy charge on the borough. Wealthy burgesses made bequests to the quay, John Marflet in 1453 and John Eckylsell in 1468. The Borough ruled on 24.11.1488 that anyone having a vessel made or repaired at the Botehill shouldn't remove it without paying the bailiff 1s for each week. A royal order of 1489 to the officers of the forest of Pickering required them to allow 300 oak trees for repair of the ruined jetty and quay at Scarborough. The burgess men fished to the Dogger Bank, to Shetland and even to Iceland. About fifty men paid tithes to the church on the fish they caught in any one year. They spoke of "northseafare", "skatefare", "land herring ","winterherring" and "Iceland fare" along with "far coast" and lobster boats. Some of the bigger men were in several of the fisheries. Red herrings were already known and there was a herring house in Fleshergate. "Haburdens" were sometimes called "Scarborough fish". They traded salt fish, cod, white and red herring and Iceland stockfish up the Yorkshire river system. They sold at York, Beverley and London while agents for Fountains Abbey, Durham Priory and Selby abbey bought fish from the port. Merchants found family connection was the most reliable basis for credit trading. Burgesses moved between one borough and another. John Brompton the Beverley merchant had Scarborough connections in 1444 and his ancestors may well have been from the town. Robert Crosse of Hull was of the old Scarborough line and still had a property there. The Scarborough merchant Richard Bawtre made an agreement about credit with a York merchant. Mother Sage of Scarborough remarried Robert Alcock of Hull, and was mother in law of John Dalton the Hull merchant of 1487. William Tunstall was supervisor of Thomas Sage's will and married his daughter Agnes, Thomas's house passed to his widow Katherine Sage for life. She left bequests to Haltemprise Priory, to Hull Trinity Guild and gave her great brass pot to Whitby abbey. Sir Richard York the 1498 York alderman had leaseholds in Scarborough. Ship ownership was divided into small shares, as vessels became larger, so spreading the risks of loss, and raising more capital. Sole ownership was still known ,but so were halves, quarters and eighths. Christopher Conyers of Scarborough owned the ship "Thomas" while a five man coble belonged to Peter Shilbottle. Richard Bedome had half the Bartholomew and William Sanderson owned a quarter of another ship. John Skinner had half a "Finian" boat, half a "North seaboat" and half a coble. A Scarborough stringlayer had one eighth of the "Sarah" , the "Content" and the "William". John Swan a mariner of 1461 left an interest in the ship "Mary". Fisherman Robert Richardson had a quarter of a ship, half of a boat and a coble, which he left to his sons with three herring nets and a small line. Scarborough ships played their part in coastal trade.Those entering Hull included master William Skot's "Julyan "(1453) ,William Slegge's "Cristofer"(1465), and Walter and Roger Yonge's "Katrin"(1471-2). Cargoes included wine, wainscottes, counters, wheat , bitumen, candlewick, iron, kettles and fish. There were pots, brushes, madder, painted cloths, paper, pins and ginger. John Ryedale's ship "Thomas " of Scarborough in February 1471-2 ,carried "iron, salt, wainscotts, oil, hops and much more in a cargo worth £23.10s. French ships brought Bay salt. The "George" exported wool for William Tunstall in 1490 and returned with a Low Countries cargo. A Danzig ship in October 1462 brought ten last of planks, one last of osmunds, 200 great boards, 9 barrels and 3 pokes of "litmosse", 19 pieces of "clarholt", 24 rafters, a piece of wax weighing 80 lbs, 3 corves of salt, some spruce and one small barrel of porpoise. The company of Merchant Adventurers had Scarborough members in 1478 . Scarborough's craft guilds were small, five or six men in each sufficient to make an organisation useful. There were guilds of merchants, carpentarii,(carpenters) ,fabri,(smiths), torificatores, (wiremakers), restiones,( ropers), latomi, (masons), tegularii, (slaters), pistores,(bakers) , carnifices, (butchers), scissores,(tailors), textores, (weavers), fullones, (fullers), alutarii (shoemakers), cerdones, (tanners), chirothecarii, (glovers), tonsores, (barbers), candelizatores(chandlers), portotores,(porters) ,and pictores, (painters). The tanners included William Scott (1471) and William Oliver (1472) . Other men pursued occupations without guilds - an ankersmith(1458), John Gregman a barker (1404), Cornelius Arteson an early beerbrewer (1493), several mercers, Hugh Raysyn schoolmaster ( 1457) and wrights Thomas Cockerell & William Megetson (1459). The king's brother, Richard Duke of Gloucester took a fleet to Scotland in 1471. Sir Thomas Hastings was made constable of Scarborough castle and in June that year was ordered to arrest Thomas George and Robert Gower, Thomas Sage, Richard and John Robinson of Scarborough. The Duke campaigned against Scotland again in the following year. He probably became familiar with Scarborough in this period. He used the port to provision the King's ships. He borrowed money from ,or incurred debts, to Scarborough burgesses and he ordered local supplies. John Pepedes was commissioned to recruit mariners and soldiers and Richard Goughe to find supplies for Dunbar and the navy. William Todde of York was paid £28.4.8 for things supplied for victualling the kings ships at Scarborough. Margaret Todd in 1483 would give three Scarborough houses to endow a chapel of the Archangel Gabriel at Whitby. The Duke of Gloucester received a grant from the King of Scarborough Castle in 1473, confirmed in 1475 ,together with the fee farm, the manor of Falsgrave and the port and haven. This last seems to mean the royal incomes and privileges exercised in the port and haven. There is a strong tradition that Richard bought Northstead manor probably from Alexander Sparrow and enclosed its fields. Richard may have initiated harbour works. The traveller Leland in c1534 said that "at the south east end of Scarborough town by the shore is a bulwark now in ruins by the sea rage " "made by Richard III."that lay a while at Scarborough castle and beside began to wall a piece of the town with squared stone . The bulwark sounds like a pier . Leland also said that "there cometh by the south east of the bulwark a rill of fresh water and so goeth into the sea". This raises a little doubt as to the description or the site, as the only water courses known are not at the south east end of the town, but at West Sandgate, and Mill beck, sensible if south west was meant rather than south east. The Damyet gutter entering the sea near West Sandgate is another possibility, but this still fails to fit the description. After he was crowned as King , Richard the III made a northern tour.He was at Scarborough on May 22nd 1484 and again from 30th June to 11th July. An order of 28th May was for the payment of £40 due to Scarborough merchant Thomas Sage. It has long been speculated but never yet proved whether the so called Richard III house at Scarborough Sandside belonged to Thomas Sage, who certainly had property in that area, King Richard gave a charter to the town in 1485 which would have made Scarborough a county, and a custom port separate from Kingston upon Hull They might have appointed a Mayor, who would exercise Admiralty rights from Scarghale south to Northlands on the north,and enjoyed quayage and the quay without rendering any account of tolls.They would have been freely able to ship wool and skins with wool on them, from the Tees to Filey, an area embracing all Cleveland, Blakamoor, Whitby Strand, Pickering Forest, Galtres Forest, Birdforth, Ryedale and Hertfordlithe and other merchandise, except staple goods which had to pay the Calais staple. King Richard III died shortly afterwards. Scarborough carried on.
Chapter 4: Storms & Rescue
A sea shanty about the 1880 storm on the Yorkshire coast
Me thinks I see a host of craft spreading their sails to lea,
as down the Humber they do glide all bound for the northern sea,
me thinks I see on each small craft a crew with hearts so brave,
going out to earn their daily bread upon the restless waves,
∞
Chorus
And its three score and ten boys and men were lost from Grimsby town
From Yarmouth down to Scarborough many hundreds more were drowned
Our herring crafts, our trawlers, our fishing smacks as well
They long defied that bitter night and battled with the swell
∞
Me thinks I see them yet again as they leave the land behind
Casting their nets into the sea the fishing shoals to find
Me thinks I see them yet again and all on boards alright
with the sails close reefed and the decks cleared up and the sidelights burning bright
∞
October's night left such a sight was never seen before there were spars and shafts and broken yards come floating to the shore,
there was many a heart of sorrow, there was many a heart so brave,
there was many a hearty fisherlad did find a watery grave
∞
Me thinks I hear the skipper say come lads come shorten sail,
for the sky to all appearances looks like an approaching gale.
Me thinks I see them yet again and the midnight hour is past,
their tiny crafts a battling their against the lay blast.
The 200 year history of scarboroughs RNLI
BACKGROUND Many meetings and much private discussion took place at Trinity House in Scarborough during the close of the eighteenth century, not only among seamen, but also amongst other well-disposed persons who had been thinking and planning for a Lifeboat Service that would be more efficient with a special boat constructed for the sole purpose of use as a lifeboat. Foremost amongst these people was Thomas Hinderwell and there was a great satisfaction when a definite scheme began to come to life. For many centuries past, life had been lost in the brave endeavour to save the crews of stranded and wrecked vessels around Scarborough's treacherous coastline. In the 18th century Scarborough cobbles were used with many lives saved but also lost. and so following meetings in Trinity House during the year 1800 it was resolved to get a plan and commence building, at the same time making an appeal for subscriptions to defray the cost. and so by August 1801 the sum of £212 1s 6d was reached. a committee of management already appointed, it resolved that there would be two crews of twelve, each appointed from amongst the fishermen and that they would be employed in rotation. The lifeboat service at Scarborough had begun. As the third oldest lifeboat station in the british Isles and Ireland, Scarborough has a proud tradition of saving lives at sea. during its 200-year history, the number of people rescued is in substantial but untold numbers. For all that, sixteen men have given their lives in the service of Scarborough lifeboat. The heroism so often displayed is seldom mentioned and the tragedies that sometimes followed poorly chronicled. There are four very significant occurrences in the history of Scarborough lifeboats. Occurrences, where the courage of the lifeboat men was not enough. Occurrences where some, lost their lives. Read on and you will discover a little of its history including its first launch as part of the R.N.L.I. Wednesday 17th February 1836 : crew lives lost: Ten drowned: Joseph Allen, Thomas Boyes, John Clayburn, Thomas Cross, John Owston Dale, James Day, Richard Marchman, James Maw, Thomas Walker, Joseph Waugh. The first lifeboat disaster to occur at Scarborough happened on ash Wednesday the 17th February 1836. Hundreds of Scarborians crowded onto the harbour south sands and cliffs to watch a lifeboat rescue from a stricken sloop. Then disaster as the Lifeboat overturned. Within minutes the would be spectators were showing remarkable bravery by forming human chains and wading into the raging waters to rescue the survivors. Leading to this disaster, on Shrove Tuesday, 16th February 1836 a violent storm raged along britain's north east coast, being particularly rough in the Scarborough area. during the night an unusually high tide combined with gale force winds to completely demolish the primitive Spa buildings and wooden staith. The next day (Wednesday) brought no abatement of the storm off Scarborough. The sea was extremely squally with heavy surf swirling furiously around the piers and two bays. As was usual in the 19th century, a great multitude of spectators converged on the piers, cliffs and south sands (there was not a Foreshore Road in those days). In anticipation of a shipwreck and lifeboat rescue drama many men stood around the lifeboat house in the hope of being called upon to help launch the lifeboat. The crowds were not disappointed, for on ash Wednesday morning a storm battered ship with disabled sails was seen in distress in the South bay, not far from the end of the lighthouse pier attempting without success to enter the harbour. It looked as though it would be driven by wind and tide onto the dangerous rocks south of the Spa. The single masted sloop from Aberdeen named 'John' was carrying cargo. Aided by numerous strong men, the Skelton lifeboat was quickly launched onto the ebbing sea to the sound of resounding cheers and many an earnest prayer. The 14 lifeboat men rowed with full speed towards the floundering 'John'. Their mission, to rescue its crew of three men. Just as it reached the stricken sloop the lifeboat was hit by gigantic waves and capsized instantaneously. because of the ebbing tide, there was not enough water for the lifeboat to right itself. So it remained where the waves had flung it, upside down in the sea with both its ends wedged firmly in the sand. When the lifeboat was over turned 10 of the crew were washed overboard on the seaward side where the strong ebb tide bore them helplessly out to sea. Weighed down by their full-length tight fitting leather sea boots, none of the men had chance of survival. Within minutes they were dragged down by the current, disappearing from sight beneath enormous rapidly receding waves and hazardous foaming surf. Three of the lifeboat men, Francis Anderson, Macklen Foster and William Trueman had taken the precaution of fastening themselves to the lifeboat's armlines, thus they were not flung into the sea when the lifeboat capsized but were able to climb onto the underside of it, out of the reach of the sea and able to breath through the lifeboat's conducting pipes. Another lifeboat man, William Mollon, was flung to the shoreward side of the capsized lifeboat and managed after several attempts to scramble onto the outer bottom of the lifeboat. There he precariously clung, his hands clasping the outer ends of two conduiting pipes whilst angry waves endeavoured to sweep him away. As the ebbing tide receded so the spectators on the sands were able to shorten the distance between them and the upturned lifeboat and attempt the rescue of the man they believed to be the only survivor. Forming a human chain, a double line of people linked by joined hands, scores of fearless men waded through the waves to remove the lifeboat man from his perilous perch and carry him to safety. although barely conscious, he managed to tell his rescuers that three of the lifeboat crew were still alive under the overturned lifeboat. Amazed at the information, the brave rescuers quickly reformed the human chain between the sands and the lifeboat and one by one the three other surviving lifeboat men where brought ashore whilst the watching crowds cheered themselves hoarse. The bodies of eight drowned lifeboat men were recovered later that day, being washed onto the shore once the tide turned. Richard Marchman's body was not found until the following May. The body of Thomas boyes was never recovered. The crew of the stricken sloop were all rescued, being brought ashore by rocket lines. Skelton's lifeboat was repaired and put back into service. She remained in use until 1861, which was when the Scarborough Lifeboat Station joined the R.N.L.I. 2nd November 1861 crew lives lost: Two Lost: J. Burton and T. Brewster. also lost: Lord charles beauclerk, W. Tindall, J. Iles In April 1861, Scarborough received its first R.N.L.I. lifeboat, a vessel called the "Amelia". The boat was given several stiff trials in the South bay, and all seemed pleased with her performance. Tragically, the "Amelia" was only launched once on service and on that occasion she took life instead of saving it. at 4pm on 2nd November 1861, the South Shields schooner "coupland" tried to enter Scarborough harbour during a northerly gale. as she rounded the pier-end, the wind blew her sails inside out, and she was taken aback. The vessel was driven helplessly across the South bay, and she finally struck rocks opposite the Spa, some thirty yards from the sea wall. The "Amelia" was manned and launched at once, and was soon within reach of the wreck amongst great foaming waves that had dislodged stones from of the sea wall. The "Amelia" was now being hurled this way and that and the crew were unable to control it. One of the crew, Thomas Clayburn - was hurled from the boat and was washed ashore where he was rescued by means of a lifebelt that was thrown to him. all hopes of affecting a rescue went: the "Amelia" was repeatedly thrown against the sea wall, and three more men were hurled from her. One of these was crushed to death between the lifeboat and sea wall whilst another scrambled back into her. The third was washed ashore exhausted and alive. The lifeboatmen realising there only hope of survival was to strike out for the shore whilst they still had strength in their bodies left the boat one by one. a large crowd of spectators had assembled on the sea wall and the braver ones waded out through the surf to try and help the lifeboatmen reach safety. Three of them died in the surf as they tried to help. a second lifeboatman also perished as he failed to make the shore. eventually, communication with the wreck was effected by means of rocket lines, and the six crew of the "coupland" were saved. Five men died in the rescue attempt; Lifeboat men J. Burton and T. Brewster. The spectators who died, Lord Beauclerk and Messrs. Tindall and Iles were posthumously awarded Silver Medals for gallantry. The "Amelia" was smashed beyond repair and never put to sea again. 9th december 1951 crew Lives lost: One died: Frank Dalton In 1951, the Lifeboat, "E.C.J.R." was brought to Scarborough. designed for use from tidal harbours, she was powered by twin 20 horsepower diesel engines and had a radius of operation of 63 nautical miles at her full speed. At 11.15am on the 9th december 1951 she answered a call from a distressed motor-vessel, the 499-ton dutch coaster "Westkust". Within fourteen minutes the "E.C.J.R." was at sea. Coxswain John Sheader located the wreck some 19 miles of Flamborough Head by means of rockets, which were being fired by other vessels standing by "Westkust". They found her in a sorry state; her port rails were submerged and she was down by the stern. Heavy seas made it difficult for the lifeboat to come alongside her. However, this was done and two lifeboat men, bowman Frank Dalton and 2nd Mechanic Thomas Mainprize, boarded the "Westkust" to assess the situation. Minutes later the dutch captain gave the order to abandon ship and the lifeboat men helped the ten crew to board the "E.C.J.R." Last to leave the coaster was Frank Dalton, who now, had no one to help him off the coaster. as he clambered over the side of the coaster and was about to lower himself into the lifeboat, a huge wave swept her into the coaster, trapping Frank Dalton who was hanging by his hands from the coaster's rails. although he managed to get back into the lifeboat he had been so badly injured that he died before the lifeboat reached the shore. This tragedy marred what had otherwise been an almost perfect rescue; the Lifeboat and its crew had performed throughout with great skill and courage. Frank Dalton was posthumously awarded the Bronze Medal for his gallant conduct. coxswain, John Sheader and 2nd Mechanic Tom Mainprize were also awarded the Bronze MedaL. 8th December 1954 crew lives lost: Three John Sheader, John Cammish, Frank Bayes. Tragedy struck a second time for the "E.C.J.R." when she was returning from a five hour escort duty service and capsized near the harbour mouth. about 4.15pm on the 8th December 1954 after successfully escorting a number of fishing boats into the harbour the "E.C.J.R." capsized near the harbour mouth. Several crewmen, Ernie Eves, Bob Crawford, John Sheader, John Cammish and Frank Bayes, were thrown from the lifeboat. As the lifeboat righted itself, Bill Sheader, Mickey Scales and Alan Rennard hauled back aboard Ernie Eves and Bob Crawford. but three men were missing, coxswain John Sheader, Second coxswain John Cammish and Signalman Frank Bayes. They died in the surf. Coxswain Sheader, like many men before him had given the best part of his life to the Lifeboat Service. He had been a crewman for forty years and coxswain ten. At the age of 63 he finally gave his life. All the boats they had been escorting entered the harbour safely.
Chapter 5: Superstitions & Folklore
Witches and black cats in the Old Town in Scarborough - superstitions
The following are quotes from old fishermen taken during our intergenerational interviews. Young children met the retired fishermen and seamen and learnt first hand how they lived and how they thought. In this case the old fishermen talked of the superstitions which characterised the fishing communities. "Its how we were brought up, me dad, me grandad its just passed down. There's different things you can't mention. I went down pier one day early morning to go out to sea and the weather wont too good there was about 15 of us all stood on the pier, and one of the young fellows said well if we aren't going to sea, I'm going to my fathers to feed me rat. Well that was it.." Fred Normandale "A black cat if he saw a black cat he would turn round, a woman with a squint. An over hand knot in a rope, a witches knot. My uncle was very superstitious and one of his relations, a crew he was in he lent in dark to pull up the ropes and me uncle tom fell upon this witches knot on the end. That was it he went home". Bill Pashby "He lit a great big bit of paper and walked right down gunnels I asked what you doing , he said I'm getting rid of the witches, until he burnt witches off that boat would never be any good". Fred Normandale "Don't say the word long tail (rat) because they wont like it. Do not say it when talking to a fisherman it used to be ripe down there on bottom end of em . There's an old saying bout these long tails when a trawler come in from sea and he's landed all his fishing down and these long tales abandon ship, come ashore. When that ship goes to sea it will sink. Its happened many a time. Its called leaving the sinking ship." Ross Tyson
Chapter 7: Pirates & Smugglers
Smuggling of contraband along the Scarborough coast
Few records exist of the smuggling which happened on the North East coast. It was an activity which was carried on in secret and supported often by Customs Officers in secret. The memories of the smugglers are passed down by word of mouth. It was a very serious matter to be accused of smuggling and very dangerous to accuse someone of smuggling. As the smugglers grew old their tongues loosened and they told of their colourful pasts. The evidence was long gone and they loved to tell the stories. One such case was of an "Aunt Peggy" who Meadley writes of in "Meadleys Memorials". She told the story in 1810 of how she had ridden on her husbands horse on a pillion seat. When they found themselves followed by the Customs Officers she dropped from the horse with a couple of half ankers of spirits. She had a few bruises but hid. Eventually the preventatives caught up with her husband who was of course now carrying no contraband. People today probably don't realise the opportunities that smugglers had around Scarborough. They think of the Marine Drive and the lights which light up the cliffs. Yet in the times of smugglers this was a desolate cliff area. Vessels went in at the dark of night. They unloaded goods in secret hiding places in the Cliffs. There were plenty of caves, some of which connected to the old town via tunnels. If the law was spotted then they had plenty of time to reload goods back onto ships. Anyway smuggling was so profitable that they could afford to lose some of their goods. One such tunnel linked to "The Three Mariners Inn". This fits every requirement of a smugglers house. It has numerous secret cupboards. There are false floors and hidden rooms. Half way up the staircase is a very small window which was used as a look out down Quay Street. These secret hiding places really were secret. Often they were forgotten. Years later a secret room was discovered in the "Three Mariners" which contained a keg of gunpowder. On another occasion a child broke some plaster and managed to find his way into a small cupboard. It was only through his cries that they found him and the hidden cupboard. In fact there is a very spooky tale told of a similar Inn on the Great North Road linked not to smuggling but to highwaymen. Here a secret room was found years later which contained the skeleton of a man clearly dressed up as a highwayman. Obviously he had died in the room together with some stolen purses and a pistol. Perhaps the only person who knew of his presence had maybe been arrested or in fact died themselves. Even before this body was found many spoke of the ghost of a highwayman. The Three Mariners Inn is apparently haunted as well. A headless woman is said to warn of troubles at sea. The owner of the Three Mariners Inn at the time, Mr A Bell, heeded the warning and stayed onshore. That night a friend who ignored the warning was drowned at sea. Often the tales of ghosts suited the smugglers. This encouraged many unwanted visitors to stay away especially at night when the work was done. This was the case with Paradise House which was apparently haunted. Men took goods up here from Church Stairs Street. One hiding place was behind Councillor Pauls house(covered extensively in Bakers History of Scarborough). There was an outhouse at the back and underneath this was a deep drawn well. Excisemen never thought to look down here. According to Bakers informant this was "as full of contraband as it could hold". Even those charged often managed to get found not guilty. One local solicitor in Scarborough took on the case of some Frenchmen accused of smuggling brandy. He described them as "poor innocent victims of a dishonouring suspicion". As they walked away not guilty one of the men was heard to say to the lawyer "thank you for saving us, we will send you a keg tonight". One case involved a Customs Officer. He found himself having to search the house of a lady who had been informed on. He rummaged around a little and quietly told a little girl to go and cover things up with a sheet. He then searched that room and declared "I don't see anything here". Meanwhile the poor woman had almost feinted with fear. She later went to personally thank the Customs officer who scolded her and told her what a risk he had run. Another time a man was seen on the shore unloading from a suspected smuggling ship. All the other men had managed to scramble back onto the boat. This man managed to evade the law and even spoke to a Customs Officer and asked him the time as he walked up Merchants Row. He was told it was a quarter to five. He managed to get off a charge of smuggling when the other Custom House man had told of how the struggle took place before 4-30. How could he have been in that struggle when he was seen elsewhere. The times did not match up correctly and was let off. Merchants Row, was a highly linked to smuggling. Rowntrees history book recalls one old inhabitant of this Street. On the news of the acquittal of some RobinHoods Bay fishermen who had been tried in London on a charge of smuggling a huge bonfire was lit up in Newborough fed by tar barrels. Occasionally the preventatives themselves were placed under suspicion. One involves a Mr Phillip Salmon. His sailing packet was searched. The Officers were just on the verge of giving up their search when he confessed that he had some wood on board that he had not paid duty on. They searched for this but gave up again when he placed his wooden leg on the table. He said "there it is! I broke the old one when foreign, and got this instead". He clearly did not like being placed under suspicion and this became a standing joke for years ahead. Elsewhere in the histories of Scarborough is mentioned a man with a wooden leg. He was a known smuggler who used to muffle his wooden leg at night to prevent the noise. It does not say if it was the same man. But the truth is that virtually everyone was involved in the smuggling industry. Smuggling was also popular around the coast to the south of Scarborough. At Johnny Flintons Harbour in Cayton Bay and around Gristhorpe. Here large pits were dug to house goods. Brandy kegs were tied together and anchored at sea until nightfall. Smuggling was more prevelant to the north. Peaseholm Beck, Scalby Mills, Cloughton Wyke, the Peaks and RobinHoods Bay were all involved. The Staintondale portion of the coast was not so bad. Here the cliffs were dangerous and there were fewer hiding places. Further north smuggling was rife at RobinHoods Bay. In RobinHoods Bay virtually every house has hidden cupboards and secret rooms and passages. Goods could be carried from the shore to clifftop in the village without ever seeing the light of day. In a letter from Edward Cayley to a friend dated 12th December, 1763 he states "The people of this coast in this respect(smuggling) are no better than a pack of ruffians". The most notorious case involving smuggling involves a murder charge in 1823. According to one version (Bakers history of Scarborough) a William Mead resided at Barmston (Burniston). He had for a long time been a smuggler but for some reason he turned kings evidence. He caused many troubles for the man he informed on who neverthe less managed to get a not guilty verdict. Many farmers used to gather under his cottage window after thursday night market and sing ironical songs mocking him. He got into a rage and fired his gun and a farmer named Law was mortally wounded. A second version is recounted by FC Rimington (going by the Scalby Parish records) stated that Mr Meade was a much respected man. He had informed on Mr Law but this resulted in Mr Law bringing an action in the court for "wilful and corrupt perjury". Mr Law was shot whilst passing by Mr Meads house. Meade was convicted and served just three years. He was later transported to Australia on a charge of theft.
Smuggling was not new in the eighteenth century - it existed as long as there were customs to - but in the age of the Georgians it reached a new peak, as the rate-books were extended to cover a widening range of products. Silks,tobacco,French Muslin, wines, and spirits were made the subject of heavy duties, along with a galaxy of other goods, all in increasing demand. They became the staples of the smugglers art. Coastal people saw the levies as an unjust trick, as suspect indirect taxation interfering with a traditionally free trade. But to the state, the customs were the easiest way to collect money, despite all the evasions. The Customs Commissioners in 1701 faced a deteriorating situation along the Yorkshire coast and met it by expanding their staff. John Becket was appointed to Staithes with a salary of £40 a year. John Brown went to Whitby as an additional land waiter, to inspect cargoes at unlading, and Thomas Long as boatman to inspect the holds of ships. J Sedgewick was made surveyor of Robin Hoods Bay and allowed to charge his horse to expenses. Mr Standridge became riding officer at Filey and new horse officers were appointed at Hayburn Wyke and Reighton. Later in the century, the establishment was expanded again and again until each small harbour had its officer and boats crew, with riding officers and informers covering the country between them. Although the contraband that escaped may have been at least as great as that caught, there were some very considerable hauls. In July 1730, the Hull custom house had 3050 gallons of foreign brandy available for retail sale, and in the next year added 4 gallons of geneva, 9 gallons of spruce beer, and quantities of tea and coffee. Whitby Custom House in January 1777 advertised a haul of 650 gallons gin, 79 lb of green tea, 200lb of Bohea tea, 7 gallons of wine, 56 lbs of brown candy, and the 44 ton open boat in which some of these goods had been found. Smuggling was at its easiest when the coastal watch was depleted, during the American and Napoleonic wars. Then the bands of smugglers could compete on more than equal terms and the dragoons were not available to customs officers as a reserve. When the Robin Hoods Bay officer captured 200 casks of brandy and Geneva, 150 bags of tea, a chest of blunderbuses, and cartuche boxes for 20 men in an Innkeeper's house during October 1779, he had ruefully to report that the haul had previously been seized by the smugglers during a raid on the Hartlepool Customs House. Smugglers and officers were in a state of war, in which the local people sided with the rebels against authority. In a famous fight at Bay Town, the inhabitants escaped through the back doors to the country beyond with the aid of the local people. Effective action against the beach smugglers required either an adaquate coast watch, the use of informers, or the prevention on sea of vessels approaching the coast. In the main harbours, the problems were different. Here you had to locate the hidden goods on vessels rich in hidey holes and watch for its passage in small boats to the quayside. Scarborough's bailiffs wrote to the Lords of the Admiralty in 1781 that they were credibly informed that the crew of the Fearnought cutter, frequently found on this coast in the night, to run prohibited goods in the smuggling business was back again, under Captain Rowles, as soon as the informer Gibson had told them, they sent expresses to Hull and Newcastle urging that the armed ships be sent out to seek the cutter. The Whitby guards were often out in the nineteenth century, inspecting suspicious vessels or watching for signals from the cliffs. By then the balance of power was changing. After seeing a suspicious vessel near Runswick one August Monday, lieutenant Kings boat gave chase, and was eventually able to escort into harbour a 23 ton ship yielding 21 tubs of Geneva, 7 tubs of brandy, 3 casks tobacco, 2 chests of tea, and 28 casks of salt. The four prisoners were fined £100 each by the justices, but being unable to pay they were sent off to York prison. During the chase, a preventative man called Pearson had the misfortune to be wounded by the discharge of his own pistol, which fired under his jacket as he sat in the boat and put a ball into his thigh. Two or three nights later, this boats crew was out again, chasing a large lugger which gave them the slip. Smuggling was a large- scale and highly organised trade during its peak years. It required considerable investment. Goods might be purchased and vessels hired abroad or the mariner from the European coast might run in on spec, selling to the leaders of the coastal gangs. Losses could be considerable and there was no insurance but the returns on capital could be great. On shore the organisation had three stages. The landing party, sometimes assisted by diversionary groups who drew the officers away on blind leads, had quickly to hide the goods in cliff staches or coastal farms. To be caught on a coastal beach was disastrous even on a dark night, for escape ways were few and well known. The next stage was to move the goods inland beyond the immediate reach of the coastal customs. The traditional smugglers' ways from Robin Hood's Bay and the Brandy Gap at Sawdon may well recall the routes taken From Whitby, a much used avenue of trade was that used by the alum ponies going to Littlebeck. Here and at such other storehouses at Gin Garth, Danby , the goods were again hidden away. Littlebeck over the years has revealed many small finds of contraband in this century beneath stones or in cupboards. From Gin Garth a veritable wholesale trade was organised to Ryedale. This marked the final stage, sometimes a very long one, for smuggled goods were taken as far as York and even London. At the ports, the purpose was the same. Here, the supplier and his market were seperated by only a few feet of water, though some goods were taken inland by postchaise. Here more might be achieved by a little judicious bribery, and Customs Officers had then to be frequently moved and not a few dismissed. In the long battle, it is difficult to say who won. Yet in the eighteenth century, it was publicly admitted at Scarborough that the price of tea was low due to the smugglers' resource.
Since Roger the Vintner sold ale and wine in 1175 to the burgesses of the new borough of Scarborough this town has imported wine, and, until recent years, brewed ale. The early Normans brought the taste for wine, after their conquest of England, and to meet their needs Gascon ships plied to the haven at Scarborough. When a Norman king planned to visit the town in 1251, he ordered the sheriff to lay in ten tuns of wine against his arrival in these parts. While Inns and taverns sold wine, alehouses met the needs of the ordinary people, and supplied the native drink. As a sea port, Scarborough, had countless alehouses clustered around Sandside. When hopped beer began to be made, the town became a noted centre for malting, and exported malt to Newcastle and London. Complaints were sent to the bailiffs and burgesses of the "evil and deceiptfull" malt dispatched from Scarborough. Seamers yoemen complained in the sixteenth century that the men of Scarborough had forsaken their old pursuits at sea, and taken to malting. Each gentlemen's house in the old town had its brewery, as did many of the common alehouses. In their wills the yoemen left their kilns, the brewing vessels, and sometimes even their licence to favoured children. When Scarborough began to be visited for both health and pleasure, both breweries and alehouses prospered. While the larger inns enjoyed undreamt of good fortune. Not only did they provide wine to suit the Geogian gentlemen's taste, they even fed his horses, bedded his servants, and sent meals out to his lodgings. The Golden Ball, in Quay Street, was one of the better known inns. Of great age, it was noted for the "prime old ales" produced on the 30th September every year, St Jeromes Day, and the occasion for the election of new bailiffs at the nearby town hall. A brewery adjoined the house, where in 1821, Mark Coates fell into the mash tub. The Inn was eventually destroyed by the Gas Company. Most of the public houses of Sandside and Quay Street drew custom from their fishermen, and from visiting ships. Outgoing vessels were provisioned here, and for centuries the dutch ships which fished the Dogger Bank poured their seamen ashore while the catch was unloaded. The front was a galaxy of signs designed to attract men of the sea. The Sailors Return, the Newcastle Packet, The Three Mariners, the Old Buoy, and the Hope and Anchor awaited their return. The Old Globe Inn, Globe Street, one of the oldest town Inns, it attracted farmers coming to market, and later on the national nobility who came to visit the Spaw. In 1733, the dinner served at 2 O'clock offered 10 or 12 dishes inluding fish,rabbits mutton, and poultry. Spaw waters were supplied for drinking at the same time as the wine, and mixed with it. The towns local government was in some measure conducted at the Inn. The new political Association met here. A Freemason's lodge was built at its site in 1797. The first Royal Mail coach drove into the Globes stables and it became a noted coaching house. Here met the Scarborough Reform Association during the reform acts excitement. The Operatives society also met here. Bartholomew Johnson, the 100 year old musician from Wykeham, played a minuet of his own composition to a distinguished gathering of gentlemen at the old Globe in 1810. In its Georgian heyday, the Inn saw recitations, musical evenings, presentations, and political agitations. The increased duties on spirits, and the growth of the gin-habit, brought spirit shops alongside the beerhouses. National Governments vainly tried to stop the traffic but only succeeded in driving it underground. Illicit stills and smuggling became the order of the day. Only when revenue cutters were stationed at the harbour mouth were the imports checked. Too often, the cutters had to dash off to Hayburn Wyke, Cloughton, or Cayton Landing, and then some lugger would put in loaded with contraband. Scarborough’s own haven became a principal landing place for brandy and geneva. Customs Officials were frequently replaced, charged with involvement in the trade that they were there to prevent. Inns like the Golden Last in Carr Street kept a hogshead let into the hearth of the kitchen floor, in which gin flasks could be kept out of sight and mind. Even the boiler in Tindall's shipyard was used as a store. Poistchaises were kept by the Sandside Inns whisked spirits away inland whenever the coast seemed clear. Much was recaptured but even more escaped. The Duke of Wellington passed laws which helped to reduce spirit drinking, but only by making beer more popular. Licenses for beer selling were made cheap and easy to obtain. Through Queen Victoria's reign, Scarboroughs beer shops expanded in their number until there were dozens dotted about the town. To supply them distant breweries established agencies with the wine merchants. Tetleys sparkling ales were retailed in Westborough, Newborough, and South Street at 1/- to 1/8 a gallon. Worthington, Bentley, and Alsopp all brought beer to Scarborough, much of it bottled on their local premises. The three local breweries competed vigorously, and tied houses became the rule, freehouses the exception. After 1869, a more stringent licensing policy began to reduce the number of licenses. The Victorian religious revival brought visitors less inclined to spend their holiday entirely in the tap room, and reinforced the efforts that the temperance reformers had been making for twenty or thirty years. Every church and every Sunday School supplied tracts against 'The drink'. Pledge cards, and alternative meeting places with tea, coffee and cocoa. There were great temperance meetings in the rock gardens in 1841, and by the sixties it was possible to build a Temperance Hall in North Street with reading room, lecture room, and newspapers. Behind the campaigns, if not because of them, habits and opportunities were slowly being effected. As the beerhouses and ginshops closed, the public houses that remained faced competition. Their premises were improved and they increasingly came into breweries hands. Sawdust and spitoons gave way to hard floors and linoleum. Houses were rebuilt and in most cases little remains to recall their past. In an age of literacy, old signs have become irrelevant, and even inn names have been changed. No longer do the "Sheperd and Sheep", the "Shipwrights Arms" carry any message for some particular clientele. To todays visitor, one pub may be almost as good as another. Indeed with similar wallpaper, similar fireplaces, and similar plastic advertisements. It is an outstanding landlord who can give his House any identity at all.
